Chalukyan temples of Badami-Aihole-Patthadakkal
  • The three places in karnataka are treasure troves of chalukyan art.

    I had visited Badami several years back. I did not have sufficient
    background for finer appreciation, but even without that I was spell
    bound.
    Set along the big and beautiful agasthiyathirtha lake, there are 4
    cave temples (or 5 ?) - 3 hindu and one jaina. First cave shiva,
    second and third vishnu and fourth jaina. Rare sculptures

    Not only cave temples, there are also temples above the small
    hillock. These are very old and contain one of the oldest
    representations of mayavathi dreaming buddha's birth. I have no
    words to express. The second cave has some of the finest
    representations of vishnu - lord kevala narasimha being the best
    (neril paarthal bayandhe viduveergal !). Lord shiva with 16 hands in
    dancing pose (I think chatura pose not sure) !

    Not just badami - there are two other important places very
    closeby : Patthadakkal and Aihole. Aihole has the oldest surviving
    south indian temple called Lad khan temple. It is a cave temple.
    Pathadakkal has virupaksha temple built by devi of vikramaditya with
    sculptors bought over from kanchi (remember vikramaditya's kalvettu
    in kanchi ?)

    AND THERE IS ONE MORE IMPORTANT POINT :

    Vatapi konda narasingap pothrathisaasan (Narasimhavarman I) blazed
    vatapi (today's Badami) to ashes. But this great man saw to it that
    not a piece of artwork was touched. Every single sculpture - be it
    structural or cave - is left untouched. Probably that was one of the
    reasons vikramaditya did not disturb temples of kanchi. There is
    just one stone pillar in badami today with an inscription talking
    about the victory of narasimha - just one small memory etched in
    time to celebrate a great victory.

    I got into a debade with Dr.Kalaikkovan on one of the structural
    temples in badami - this temple is strikingly similar to shore
    temples of mahamallapuram. Dr.Kalaikkovan was saying it is one off
    structure and was surprised to hear about badami temple.

    I had planned to write a travelloge with all photos - it never
    happened till now
  • Forgot to add:

    Kalki's portrayal of Pulikesin as a villan and iron hearted is a great
    injustice. True, he was a sworn enemy of pallavas - but he was a big
    art lover. Every stone of badami will sing his praise and also of his
    villanish chitappa mangalesan who swindled the throne from him :-)
  • Moreover, he had come upto Kaveri but not waged war against Chola,
    Chera and Pandyas. And hence, his intentions was not to conquer
    Tamilaham, but to defeat Pallavas.

    So this also indicates, his motives and vengeance.


    Rajendhra Cholan!
  • As I mentioned once before, I was discussing the origin of "vathapi
    ganapathy" with a kannadiga friend and mentioned that Paranjothi the great
    chief of the Pallava king Maamallan is said to have brought it back. His
    version was that the Pallavas looted and pillaged it from Vathapi. Gave me
    quite some perspective. We revel in the victories of "our" (Tamil) kings
    over others but heck, they too have looted and pillaged the cities of their
    enemies. We seem to see things in black and white but in actuality there are
    large swathes of grey here. Not everyone was entirely "divine" or entirely
    "evil". We need to be careful here lest we start sounding like Dubya Bush!
    :-)
  • But, this is what is called love for mother and mother land.

    Every man eyes on a beautiful girl, but, will some one accept that
    fact that, his father had been eyeing every beautiful girl and going
    behind them in his teens?.

    Same, everywhere, this is not a mistake. When a Kannadiga, does not
    give up his emperor, a Malayalee his emperor, and same with Andhras,
    finally not to speak about North Indian's. Why should we give up
    our's?

    For a mom, what so ever her child may be, but it is good. Like wise,
    If you say, RajaRaja Chola, plundered Chalukyas, he did that for his
    country. Did not Abhaya Kulothunga, avoided duty for Chola country?

    Rajendhra Cholan!
  • RC,

    You miss my point. I didn't say we shouldn't celebrate our own chaps. I am
    just saying that we ought not to deify them. There are shades of grey in
    every character. Same with RRC or RC. They were certainly enlightened rulers
    but they must also have committed atrocities. After all, NO war is without
    its share of atrocities. All I am saying is that if we truly are lovers of
    history, then we should look at it dispassionately.:-)

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