Dhivakar in Madurai
  • I had the pleasure of meeting the author of SMS Embden. The hour and half
    meeting along with Mr.Anandnatarajan was certainly very informative and a
    whole lot of fun. I hope Mr.Dhivakar enjoyed the food at College House.
    Infact this is the second author im meeting there, the first was
    Mr.Venketesh (TOK, KM). Must thank this group for creating such
    oppurtunities. Hope i get to meet a few more folk from this group.
  • Dear Rahul,

    Appears very humble inspite of his successful launches of History Fictions... similar to our Venkat too !!

    Hope this meet figures in Vizag Dhivakar's vamsaddhara blog.

    Along with our Dear Anandanatajan - lovely !!

    Mesmerising name...

    Our dear Gandhiram also will love his name more than me I am sure !!

    regards / sps

    ============
  • Hi

    I have very fond memories of college house meeting.
    both rahul and ananda natarajan are passionate about their city.
    and college house is located in an area so symbolic of madurai- busy, crowded, never sleeping......


    venketesh
  • Some more examples of places that never sleep -
    Chennai railway station (of course chennai vaasis can speak for more places there)
    Kovai bus stand
    Almost 100% of Mumbai...abroad of course NYC and Paris.

    There is something about life in these places that can wake up even a severely depressed person.

    There are cities that always sleep, many parts of Bangalore are like that. Kovai too some parts, especially residential areas. :)) In US almost all of south is like that, sleepy, slow, laidback..There are some nice things about that also esp once if you have seen the other side.
  • Hi Maloo

    there was always a legend that madurai never sleeps because of its patron goddess.
    .....her fish like eyes.
    most fishes if you notice dont have eyelids and sleep with their eyes open( giving a feel of ever being awake to feng shui enthusiasts)


    venketesh
  • Wow..very nice to know Venkat..
  • Hi Malathi;
    Kovai? Maybe the Kovai before but certainly not now. I loved the city for
    all its aspects except this, i couldn't get parotta after 8pm (a sin for a
    Maduraitte!!)!!
    8pm the city gets shutdown. All checkposts around the city work to lessen
    inflow of villagers. Small restaurants, bars, motels, etc all work only till
    max 9pm. Anybody coming back from any pub after 9pm is questioned by the
    police. Better we get to home by 8pm-9pm and stay there.

    Madurai works to early hours of morning simply because it is the central
    marketplace for all the villages down south.Small farmers, mandi owners, etc
    get vegetables, fruits, etc at 1am-2am and setup shop so that theier first
    cutomer at 4am gets fresh goods. Then after sales they return to thier
    village at around 7-8am.Due to this reason if you get down at Madurai and go
    to a tea shop at midnight the tea stall owner would be sitting smiling in
    full regalia of vibuthi, white dhothi and mel-thundu!!!
  • Thambi Rahul, actually it wasn't like that when i was growing up..of course there were residential areas that would be very quiet even in day time since there were so many affluent large houses but in ordinary areas..tea shops and people walking around very common.

    Actually my mom and me used to watch second show and walk home with no escort of coruse the theatre was only two streets away but tea shops and people coming out of other theatres (there were six theatres just around where we lived in RS Puram), people taking flowers to poo market and leaving Annapoorna, the city used to look like 10 pm at 1 am..Strange to hear that has changed. Annapoorna shut their doors officially at 11 pm and unofficially at 1 am back then.

    Malathi
  • Also the pilgrim towns of Tirupathi and Pazhani...almost never sleep.
  • 11pm..1am..at these times the present day Kovai is seriously deserted. My
    friends and i, when i used to work there, couldn't go for a night show as
    the bus service was non-existent and even if we had a vehicle the police
    checkposts gave us hell!!
  • Hi Rahul,
    It was a great meet.
    Infact, I did not tell you that I missed the Marriage Janvas actually to meet you and Ananda Natarajan (lovely name and lovely person too).

    Now college house rush is not much as in earlier. Twenty years back when election times means the college house surrounded with all party workers with 'karai' veshti (irrespective of age and party they used to call each other  'ANNE' and this voice would be heard everywhere those times). When I asked about this you rightly pointed out the development taken place in Madurai in politicians growth stature, and spread their activities in bigger hotels.

    Still, the old look out of college house is there and I really enjoyed the meet as well idlies.

    But Madurai always looks like a very busiest town.
    1800 years back in 'Madurai Kanchi', the sangam classic, the town  was mentioned more busier than these days. I wrote the English version in PSVP two/three years back. The tamil version you can browse




    http://vamsadhara.blogspot.com/2007/05/blog-post.html

    http://vamsadhara.blogspot.com/2007/05/blog-post_12.html
    Dhivakar



     
  • Dear SPS,
    I have already posted the English version in PSVP. Anyhow from my file I have got for one version. This is the evening and night time of Madurai - This Article based on another article appeared in Madras Christian College old in-house magazine of 1901, something.

    Dhivakar





    “But time flies all the same: and
    as the day wears out the scene changes. In the declining hours of the evening
    there pass into the streets, either riding or driving, the obivalrous noblemen
    of the city, well garned by their footmen. They are clad in red silk and
    flowing upper garments. Their swords hang by their sides, and on their breasts
    roll wreaths of undying fame. Being extremely wealthy, these gentlemen spend
    the hot hours of the day in agreeable society at home. later on the high
    terraces of their palatial residences, appear their ladies, like angels dropped
    from Heaven. Their perfumes spread fragrance through all the streets, and their
    happy faces, occasionally hidden by the waving banners hung up on their house
    tops, shine like the moon struggling under passing clouds.



    “[Not far off are] the king’s courts of justice, where
    equity is dealt out as dispassionately and impartially as in a pair of scales.
    Close by live the ministers of state, remarkable for their insight into what is
    good and evil, learned but humble, jealous of their reputation, and ever
    watchful of the cause of rectitude. Further on reside the merchant princesses,
    who are celebrated alike for their scrupulous honesty and wealth and whose
    business embraces everything useful in the sea, mountain or land. The minor
    officers of the four divisions of the royal service viz., of the
    ecclesiastical, military, diplomatic and secret departments come next in order,
    and we finally reach the artisan classes, including workers on shells and
    pearls, gold and copper smiths, tailors, and clothiers, dealers in perfumes and
    flowers, and painters, who can bring out in colors. Even subtle modes of
    movement. All these and other of the town having now come out for business of
    pleasure, there is scarcely any elbow room in any of the streets, and we have,
    therefore, to stand heel to heel. To add the deafening noise produced by such a
    concourse of people there take place in every street grand feastings with such
    sumptuous dainties as jack and mango fruits, sugar candies and tender greens,
    edible yams and far famed preparations of meat. The bustle of the evening then
    is not a whit less than what it was in the morning; and the whole scene
    presents the appearance of a seaport town, hurriedly loading and unloading a coasting
    vessel that stands already with its sails unfurled to steer out with the first
    ebb back into the main.



    “The sun has now gone down and the moon is up; but our
    city still knows no rest. The lighting of lamps is but the signal for the fair
    ladies of the town to prepare themselves for enjoyment. It is for the first
    time, like wise, when disreputable characters of both sexes come out and wander
    about the streets, some of them so drunk that they are unmindful of the sharp
    pricking nails, that are scattered in front of the elephants, when they turn
    wild and attack the mahouts that lead them. But more responsible classes of
    persons are also abroad. For instance, young women, who have but recently
    attained the honour of maternity, are now taken to the tanks for ablutions,
    while others go out to meet them and to receive their blessings, in the hope of
    becoming equally fortunate. Later on the sooth Sayers of the Velan class gather
    in the houses of the sick, and propitiate in deafening songs the particular
    deities to whole ill will the diseases are discovered to be due. Each street
    has, besides, its merry dances and noisy pastimes.



    “So passes the night till twelve, when, step by step, the
    dancing and singing parties decline in vigour. The petty traders now close their
    shops, by dropping their bamboo screens, and the poor dealers in sweetmeats
    sleep in front of their dainties. The actors and performers, likewise, retire
    to rest; and the town, like an exhausted sea is wrapt up in the silence of
    sleep., but the sea again Madhura knows no completed rest. For now that honest
    folks have gone to sleep, devils, human and super human, come out to work their
    mischief. But our poet is apparently not a spiritualist, and he fails,
    therefore, to give us any further information of the super human or disembodied
    devils. With the human or the tangible portion of the class, he seems, on the
    other hand, to be perfectly familiar. He minutely describes to us the dress and
    accoutrements of the burglars of his days, which we cannot afford to reproduce.
    Besides weapons of offence and defense these ruffians appear to have carried
    with them certain rope ladders for scaling high walls and roofs of houses. But
    their equipments are of no avail since the alertness of the might patrols ever
    proves too much for them. If our poet’s description of the police officers of
    his days can be believed, they must have been a wonderfully efficient and
    exemplary body. With sleepless eyes and fearless hearts they combine consummate
    cunning and complete knowledge by law. But it is their high sense of duty that
    is altogether surprising. ‘not even in the rainy nights, when the high streets
    overflow with water do they absent themselves from their trying posts of duty,
    or permit themselves a wink of sleep.’ Watched over by such a constabulary it
    is no wonder that the city passes the night in careless profound slumber.



    “But there are not many hours for such sweet response.
    Long before dawn, we hear the Brahmins reciting the Vedas like so many humming
    bees on surface of opening buds. The musicians are next heard tuning their
    instruments. The feminine dealers in dainties are now up and are plastering as
    usual the floors of their shops wit
  • Too bad if it is that way now. Four years back or so used to go to sivananda colony,gandhipuram or lolly road at around midnight to have dinner in the road side idly shops. Used to watch second show in KG and walk all the way to GCT hostel. Even if police ask anything we just had to show our film tickets. Gandhipuram used to be awake always.

    Probably the general security problem in India is the reason for the strict rules nowadays.One of many ways stuff like these affect normal lives.
  • I am wondering if any Kovai vaasis know if the 'poo market' or Thyagi Kumaran market as it was otherwise called still exists? It was the only exclusive flower market (I think there are some in Madurai perhaps but not anywhere else) - it was the end of RS Puram, near Shanmuga theatre back then. Thyagi kumaran market was almost buzzing with people 24x7, roses, literally so many varieties of jasmine you could not even name, and so many colorful flowers that would assume artistic shapes under the talented hands of flower makers. Most political rallies had their garlands and other flower based decor ordered from here, not to mention temples.
  • used to spend my holidays with friends at TNAU in coimbatore.
    used to watch night show at central and walk all the way
    lawley corner( r.k narayan's malgudi had a lawley extention didnt it?)
    biriyani shops were famous near tnau. i remember a variety called Empty biriyani( no chicken piece only rice) for those like us students at the end of the month.

    venketesh
  • THANK YOU SO MUCH DEAR DHIVAKAR.

    VERY NICELY TRANSLATED..
    GOOD .. I DIDN'T ATTEMPT.

    BEST REGARDS / SPS
  • Actually Central was the only theatre that would screen english movies in kovai and the only A/C 70 mm theatre also. TNAU - lots of movies were made there in 50s and 60s. Maragatham, Pavamannippu two i can remember easily.

    I don't know about Biryani but Annapoorna Nei Roast dosa was phenomenal, with 4 chutneys for a bargain 7 Rs in those days!! We used to save change from bus fare to get to 7 Rs and go eat that. Sometimes it would take upto six months to save 7 Rs but was always worth it!

    And Kovai always had the best fruits and vegetables being at close proximity to Oooty. Not the type of vegetables common to chennai but 'english' vegetables - carrots, green peas and so on.
  • > Actually Central was the only theatre that would screen english movies in kovai and the only A/C 70 mm theatre also.

    it had a twin theatre no?
    kanakathara or swarna dara
    i remember the powerful ac they had. janni kattirum


    venketesh
    >
  • venkat, no, there were no twin theatres back then, kovai had first twin theatres in late 80s with KG complex.

    The only theatres with AC where Central which almost always screened enenglish movies and charged more, and the other was Royal which put on ac selectively, when a new movie or 'color' movie got released.

    There were no theatre complexes back then. Balcony was 10 bucks max. You had to go early and find a seat that no tall person can disrupt. If the movie had good songs they would be selling song books for 10 paise or so outside (wonder what happened to old song books now?). There would be photographs of the movie in the theatre lobby which eager fans would be looking at. Then about half an hour before movies there would be some old songs and slowly the cloth screen will go up. Then there would be a slide show with dumb warnings like not to smoke, the usual family planning ads and so on. Then the documentaries that woudl be greeted with whistles and impatient hoots and then the movie. If you went to old movies it was funny sometimes the reels would be screened in wrong order or the movie upside down :)) Looking back everything seems like a funny mememorable experience. Somehow there was something in life in those days which is so missing now...the slow paced-ness and taking everything as it is...
  • Dear SPS,
    Thanks for the 'heads up' about V. Dhivakar's
    Madurai blog.
    Kathie
  • Dear Kathie,

    Hope you have seen the translation by Dhivakar himself.

    best regards / sps

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