Halva is one of those dishes found from the Balkans to India and claimed as its own by practically every culture and country in between.
For Greeks, halva is one of the main Lenten sweets, especially the variety made with tahini and sold in block or brick form. This type of halva is called Makedonikos Halvas (Macedonian halva). It is sold by weight and comes plain, flavoured with chocolate, or studded with nuts. Greeks like to eat Makedonikos halvas sprinkled with lemon juice and cinnamon.
Although halva is found all over Greece, it seems most likely that the etymology and perhaps the origins of the dish are Turkish. According to the "Classical Turkish Dictionary," the word 'halva' in Turkish means sweet, but has evolved over time to be associated mainly with the name of the particular sweet in question.
In the "Turkish Cookbook," Nevin Halici writes that halva - or helva as it is called in Turkey - is the oldest dessert in Turkish cuisine. Mention of the dish is made in the 13th century works of Mevlana Jalaluddin-i Rumi, who conceived a philosophy of harmony and cooperation and provided much information on the subject of food. Many dishes are described in Mevlana's works, among them two versions of helva, one made with grape syrup called "pekmez helvasi" and one made with almonds called "badem helvasi". In the 15th century, during the reign of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, under whose rule Topkapi Palace was greatly expanded to accommodate a more elaborate court life, the kitchens were rebuilt to include a structure with six domes called the Helvahane, or House of Helva, where, among other things, numerous varieties of halva were made.
By the 17th century, the elite of Istanbul were holding elaborate dinners called Helva suppers, perhaps not unlike the symposia of the ancient Greeks. At these Helva dinners, the sweet was served as a kind of intermezzo between sessions of discussion and entertainment. In some parts of Anatolia to this day helva suppers are still held.
Today, helva is still a very popular sweet in Turkey, consumed on special occasions, but especially to mark births and deaths.
Although there are disputes as to when, the dish, or at least its name, seems to have moved south and east from Turkey, into Syria and Lebanon, the Gulf States, Afghanistan, and, finally, India. Some sources say that Turkish emigrants, not Ottoman conquerors, brought it to the Arab countries a mere hundred or so years ago. Most agree it was introduced into India by the Moguls in the 16th century.
Of all the countries of the East, though, India possesses by far the most unusual recipes for this most popular, widespread sweet. The Indian Sooji Halwa (similar to the one pictured left) contains many of the same ingredients most Greeks associate with halva, including semolina, sugar, and butter. But sometimes the wheat-colored dessert, India style, is studded with black raisins and is redolent of cardamom. It is the most commonly prepared dessert in Indian homes, oftentimes served with a dollop of heavy cream poured over it, and one of the main foods given to nursing mothers.
Some of the most unique and delicious Indian halwas are the ones made for banquets and feasts. One calls for carrot simmered in coconut milk for hours until it becomes a delicate pudding. Another banquet preparation is the pumpkin or gourd halwa and the banana halwa (also found in Turkey). But perhaps the most unusual Indian recipe of all is the "dhall halwa", made with black lentils, semolina, rose water, coconut, and almonds.
In India, halva`s popularity became the root of halvais, the confectioners caste. Many Indian versions are made with semolina and ghee. Depending upon where you go, you can find types that use spices, nuts, or seeds. Non-semolina-based confections can be made from zedoary flour or veg (carrot, potatoes, beets or squash), fruit (bananas, mangoes, papayas) or legumes (lentils, peanuts, moong beans). Other ingredients can include cream, egg custard or coconut milk and can be flavoured with any number of nuts, spices and/or dried fruits.
Halva enjoys a special status in popular jargon in the state of Tamil Nadu. "Enakkae alvaa vaa?" (is a humorous colloquial Tamil phrase used when the speaker feels that another person is trying to outsmart him or her.
The halva in the southern state was brought by North Indian businessmen or "Lalas", and hence the famous name "Lala Kadai Halva" (Lala`s Shop Halva). In Tirunelveli, a famous shop serves halva after six in evening hence it is called "irutu kadai" It is known for its delicious halva which is red in color and has ghee floating on it.