Origins of Indian Food - II - Rossagolla
  • Nobin Das, a local confectioner of Kolkata, earned the title "Rasagolla's Columbus," thereby likening him to the Italian navigator who supposedly discovered America. There are similarities between the two in ways more than one.

    When Columbus set foot on American soil for the first time, America was already taken! The marauder cum navigator was encountered by Carribean natives, the Arawaks. They and the denizens of the five hundred or so "First Nations" had been living in America for thousands of years before Columbus.

    Unfortunately for Nobin Das, when he introduced, what was to become India's national sweet, to Kolkata, the Rasagolla too was already taken! By the time the recipe reached Nobin Das (which was either in 1868 or a few years earlier through another confectioner, Haradhan Moira), it was already a traditional item in Orissa - standard fare in the cities of Bhubaneswar and Cuttack, and of course in Puri, the medieval town that also gave the world the Kheeri (Kheer or Payasam)!

    Savoring Rasagollas in Orissa is one unforgettable experience. Driving southwards on National Highway 5, just miles before the capital city of Bhubaneswar, lies the village of Pahala. The entire village - mind you, I mean each and every family - follows exactly the same business, selling Rasagollas, Chhenagaja, and Chhenapoda. There are dozens of identical looking stalls right along the highway. It would be heresy for an Oriya not to stop by one of those stalls and try some of their delectable wares.

    A newcomer, used to the standard "Bengali sweets", would hardly recognize the fluffy, cream-colored, billiard ball sized wonders sold at Pahala as Rasagollas. But that is what they are. As a matter of fact, those are exactly how Rasagollas were supposed to look like for centuries before Nobin Das started marketing their crumbly, chewy descendants, calling them his own.

    Luckily for Nobin Das*, the Rasagollas from Pahala begin to sour hours after they are made and cannot be shipped elsewhere. Inside a refrigerator, they can stay for a day or so at best. That is also why some local folk enjoy them piping hot, although many others seem to prefer them cold! Either way, a Pahala Rasagolla is ticket to 100% gastronomic bliss!

    Pahala is not the only place you can sink your teeth into those exotic dollops of cheese. Tucked deep inside rural Orissa, lies the town of Salepur. An unassuming little place otherwise, its Bikalananda Kar Rasagollas are simply divine! These ones look a lot like their Pahala counterparts and are equally famous in Orissa. But they are eaten by the Salepuri locals with crispy Poories as the accompaniment! Although it may seem unconventional at first, a mouthful of the combination would instantly tell the uninitiated how well the Rasagollas and Poories complement each other!

    But Rasagollas are not the sole Oriya creation. There are Chhenagaja, Chhenapoda, Rasabali, and Rasmalai, and much much more that Orissa has to offer. In fact much of its ancient culinary treasures are hidden even today, waiting to find their own Nobin Das's and Haradhan Moiras. Orissa, the state that gave the world Rasagolla and Kheeri is still undiscovered country, and the Mecca of gastronomic delights!
  • ah....my mouth is watering ....missing those delicacies.

    The description reminds me of Kovilpatti near Tirunelveli...famous for Karasev and kadalai barbi (burfi??)...all along the street, every house will have a small stall outside..with the same stuff...karasev and kadalai burbi.... :)
  • Guys,

    The mahendra cave trail trip - mallipoo idly - courtesy Mrs Venkatesh, and curd rice with mango pickle courtesy Sri Narayanswamy, was simply divine. If only we had the forethought to take it with us from the vehicle up to the rock face atop dhalavanur - and have it beside the jain beds on the rock crop, overlooking the serene farms, would have been sublime.
  • Enga ippadi Gnyabaga paduthuringa...
    veetu idly saapitu 1 1/2 aachu!
  • Dear Malathi,
    You should start a food blog. This is really painful
    to read on the other side of the world. Can you get
    any of the goodies you mention in Kentucky?
    I did have Dharwad Peda last trip. Melt-
    in-your-mouth sweets.
    Kathie
  • Kathie, Food blogs are run by cooks and am only an average cook plus I don't particularly enjoy eating out a lot!! I was trying to be more of a food historian since I collect these stories(and this is a history blog!).

    Rossagolla/authentic bengali sweets are not available anywhere here, there is tons of canned stuff you know the rossagolla lke little tennis balls in sugar syrup is easily available in indian grocieries. If you heat some water and pour on it it gets softer. But not even remotely close to the original in Orissa and West Bengal. If you tour any of these states you must try authentic rosagollas they dont' last longer than a day or two btw.

    Malathi
  • oh god

    why should the best things to taste be equated to pison by the doctors
    ??/,
    > You should start a food blog. This is really painful
    > to read on the other side of the world. Can you get
    > any of the goodies you mention in Kentucky?
    > I did have Dharwad Peda last trip. Melt-
    > in-your-mouth sweets.
    > Kathie
    >
  • Venkat, there can be no greater compliment than to be compared to PG Wodehouse for humor!! Honestly not sure if I deserve it but thanks,

    Malathi
  • God's will. Even amrut becomes poison if taken more than what is
    'prescribed'.

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